5 Day Self-Drive Tour Donegal Sligo Mayo
Donegal Town to Mullaghmore
Head The beginning of this route brings us to Donegal town, and your farewell to this vast county as you head southbound on the Wild Atlantic Way. Settle in for the evening after a stroll along the harbour and a feed of Donegal Bay oysters fresh from the trawlers. Non-surfing spectators – and there are plenty who come to Mullaghmore just to watch – make those wave-topping moments explode with excitement from onshore. Feel free to follow the cars adorned with surfboards, and you’ll definitely be at the heart of the action. Alternatively, take to the harbourside Pier Head Hotel and marvel at the views from the comfort of indoors.
Mullaghmore Head to Sligo Town
Leave the Neoprene-clad daredevils behind at Mullaghmore, and head south to Sligo town next, a place well known for its toe-tapping traditional Irish music sessions. In fact, the town’s stellar reputation put it top of the list to host the most prestigious Irish music festival on the island of Ireland – the All-Ireland Fleadh Cheoil. So pack your dancing shoes if you’re making your way to Sligo around August 2014. You’re in Yeats Country here, too. The Nobel Laureate WB Yeats (son of a Sligo-born mother, who brought her children back to grow up in her home county) is celebrated both in the town and countryside. The dramatic backdrop of Ben Bulben in the Dartry Mountains can be seen from Sligo town. Standing out as a spectacular rock formation, there’s no doubt WB Yeats gazed upon this very same sight when penning his poem Under Ben Bulben. His younger brother Jack also ensured that his illustrious works of art portrayed a little of that special Sligo beauty, no matter what the subject.
Sligo Town to Aughris
On leaving Sligo town, make an exit towards the ocean and head for yet another surfing haven of Strandhill Beach – did we mention that surf was big around here? Surfers of all levels are encouraged to pit stop here first before attempting the more serious waves of Mullaghmore. Beginners are welcome, too, with Strandhill Surf School and Perfect Day Surf and Sup School offering a warm welcome and lessons for all abilities. Mugs of hot chocolate are order of the day in these parts… Continuing southwest along the Wild Atlantic Way, you’ll arrive at Aughris. Check out The Beach Bar, an award-winning restaurant housed in a cosy thatched cottage. Aughris is part of the Dunmoran/Aughris coastal walk, which takes you to a nearby deserted village where you’ll find the remains of booley huts. These simple stone dwellings were built for herdsmen who needed to be close to their cattle during summer months. Historically, entire families used to call these places home.
Aughris to Downpatrick
Head Continue west from Aughris, and you’ll pass through the town of Ballina, where every July the town relishes its location on the banks of the River Moy by hosting the Ballina Salmon Festival. Hug the coast northwest again until you come face to face with Downpatrick Head, which stands a staggering 38.5m (126 feet) above the sea. It’s little wonder that a lookout post was built here during World War II. The Dún Briste (The Broken Fort) sea stack can be seen from this point, too. Separated from the mainland in 1393, this Atlantic rock has remained remarkably intact, despite the ferocity of the waves below. To the southeast of Downpatrick Head lies Killala Bay, while to the west, take a moment to soak up the sight of the tall Staggs of Broadhaven at the edge of Portacloy: a group of five rocky islets rising 100m above the crashing waves. The Staggs, said to be millions of years old, are a magnet for deep-sea divers, kayaking groups and those who simply wish to watch the sun rise and set.
Downpatrick Head to Céide Fields
Taking the road west from Downpatrick Head, you’ll arrive at a place called Céide Fields. This is where the first settlers began to farm the slopes of the Behy and Glenurla hillside over 5,000 years ago, and the natural blanket bog covers secrets from the Stone Age that may surprise you. These Neolithic field systems are the oldest in Europe and have their own interpretative visitor centre (open from Easter to September) exhibiting the region’s unique ecology and bogland. Guided walking tours are available to get a feel for the site’s rich history.
Céide Fields to Belmullet
Over half an hour away to the northwest is Belmullet (Béal an Mhuileat), a Gaeltacht (Irishspeaking) town on the Erris Peninsula. Lying to the southwest of the peninsula is the tiny island of Inishkea (Inis Gé Theas), which can be visited during the summer months from Blacksod. Belmullet is ideally placed for those interested in sea angling, while also forming the end of the North Mayo Sculpture Trail (Tír Sáile in Irish). This involved the creation of 14 site-specific sculptures along the north Mayo coast from Ballina to Belmullet. The sculptures were installed in 1993, coinciding with the celebration of Mayo 5000, a year-long event that marked the presence of humankind in Mayo for that many years…
Belmullet to Ballycroy
Head south to Ballycroy village, located between Mulranny and Bangor. Ballycroy National Park is Ireland’s newest National Park and is dominated by the Nephin Beg mountain range. The park is a hillwalker’s dream with dedicated walking trails. The Bangor Trail dates back to the 16th century when it was the main route for locals and their livestock. Summing it up, Irish author of The Way That I Went, Robert Lloyd Praeger said: “You are thrown at the same time back upon yourself and forward against the mystery and majesty of nature.”
Ballycroy to Keem Strand
Further south again is the bridge leading to Achill Island. Following the island signposts brings you across to Keem Bay, which gazes out onto to the Atlantic Ocean – next stop America. Mayo is known for its multitude of Blue Flag Beaches (each must meet 32 strict criteria for water quality, management, safety and environmental education) and Keem Strand is one that continues to thrill beach goers. We suggest a change into your swimsuit should the sun shine down on you, most times you’ll only have the sheep as onlookers…
Keem Strand to Clew Bay
Return to the mainland and go south to Clew Bay where locals say there are 365 islands, one for every day of the year (in reality, there are 117). The largest island, Clare Island, still has around 130 inhabitants and can be easily accessed by ferry. See the bay from onboard Clewbay Cruises during high season, and keep watch for Dorinish Island, which John Lennon bought in the 1960s. Clew Bay is and has always been a hub for maritime activity. The infamous Pirate Queen Grace O’Malley based herself from this spot over 500 years ago. Nearby Westport House celebrates her fearsome legacy. Just a few minutes from Clew Bay is Westport, which was voted the best place to live in Ireland in 2012. Once you arrive, you’ll understand why. The charming coastal town buzzes with warmth and the locals’ welcome is legendary. The town is particularly lauded for its great gourmet offerings, especially during the Westport Food Festival (September). From Westport, you’re ideally placed to keep on exploring the rest of the Wild Atlantic Way. Counties Galway and Clare, just south of here, boast some of the best natural landscapes imaginable, while Limerick city is the first ever Irish City of Culture in 2014.